They are the most controversial mice in France, as their fate dictates the fortunes of a multimillion-euro shellfish industry, and critics say that their use epitomise the Government’s excessive health and safety culture.
A ban was introduced recently on the oysters of the Arcachon Bay near Bordeaux in southwest France — considered by gastronomes to be among France’s finest — after they were deemed to be toxic after a test that involved giving the shellfish to laboratory mice.
Oyster producers say this is the fifth successive year in which the death of mice has resulted in the closure of oyster stalls, and the fourth this year.
The region’s 350 oyster farmers have now dismissed the test as meaningless and in an act of defiance are continuing to sell their catches despite official warnings that they could endanger health. The rebellion appears to have thrown the authorities on to the defensive and only 24 producers have been fined the token sum of €11 each.
“This test is a sham and a fraud which is going to lead to the disappearance of oyster production in the Arcachon Bay,” said Olivier Laban, chairman of the regional oyster producers’ committee. His words carry weight, since Arcachon’s oysters have been cherished by bons vivants since the Middle Ages, although they account for less than 10 per cent of total French production.
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